Japanese Food Bites: Indulging in the Taste of Summer

July 7, 2024

Hello my name is Frederick Hu, a 2nd year Business Administration and Economics student from Northeastern, and today I’ll be talking about Tanabata, also known as the Festival of the Stars. 

Doing a bit of a deep dive about the festival I learned that the festival originated from the Chinese Qixi Festival and is to celebrate the meeting of deities Orihime (the goddess of weaving) and Hikoboshi (A mortal herdsman). The story itself was quite tragic, as their love ultimately led to their separation when the pair neglected their duties on heaven and earth.

The day started with waking up early for class and a mad dash for breakfast. I did eat a wonderful Japanese esk breakfast with western elements. I did try my best to follow the Washoku principles I learned the other day from Andoh-San. By trying to make a ichi-juu-sai styled meal. With the veggie filed miso soup for the broth, freshly cut red apples, grilled saba (mackerel) in a miso marinade, and some stuffed cabbage rolls with a juicy pork filling, plus a small side salad with some yuzu vinaigrette to cut the fat of the meal. 

Then by 8:10 am I departed for Ikebukuro station for class, on a Sunday which was very interesting. Though with all the fun packed into this study abroad it warrants the need for unusual class opportunities. An added benefit I found going to class on a Sunday is that the morning train wasn’t as packed as previous days, so much so I even found a seat. Rather than the typical standing and being shoved into a packed train. 

2 stops later me and a few of my classmates exited at Myogadani station and I swiftly swung by the combini and grabed one of my favorite drinks for the summer. Kirin’s salty lychee drink, and I find it so perfect for a variety of reasons. The normally saccharine flavor of lychee juice is balanced out with the added sea salt to create a sweet but refreshing drink perfect for beating the Japanese heat. 

Classes began at 9 and it was Biology & Society with Professor Young. The lesson was about Molecules, Cells, Proteins, and Enzymes. We learned about their basic structures, chemical composition, and interactions with outside entities. We did have a brief visit with Professor Christy Chung who formerly worked back at the Mills Institute in Oakland, but now works at Ochanomizu and their research endeavors. It was interesting to hear about her story and the work she has done.

After our 10:30 break we switched over to Professor Ito’s class Food writing where we did some free writing and other food writing based activities. Such as writing prompt generation and sharing our free writes in the class.

After classes I was famished and was looking for a quick bite. I’ve always wanted to take a glimpse into what the average Japanese eats and step into their shoes. Therefore I had to go to a family restaurant. Luckily there was a Saizeriya a 5 minutes away and according to all my friends who have lived in the country, they swear by Saizeriya’s $2 New Zealand green tipped mussels so me and my friends got 3 orders. In hindsight we should have ordered more. Walking in gave me such a calming almost normalized sight: families with kids in tow, groups of friends of all ages, and the occasional solo diner. It felt like I was back in the states like an Olive Garden, but after that meal I swear Saizeriya does Italian better than any American joint at that level. The sight of togetherness was a great relief from the loneliness I see at restaurants throughout the country which is another issue altogether. The prices there were also so affordable, it seems that everything was taken at a loss like the cost of roasted chicken at a Costco. The dishes were just coming out, their Onion soup was like an attempt at French Onion Soup but with a more delicate broth. Pastas such as carbonara, mentaiko spaghetti, and an Au gratin with shrimp. The mussels and of course and then the true scarcity in the country, vegetables. Therefore ordering asparagus was a must. I know many Japanese have vegetables at home, but as a foreigner it is more scarce than bathrooms, and near the scarcity level of a trash can. The most stunning fact was that the meal for 5 people came out to be around 4900 yen or 30 dollars USD. For 5 people and for so much food, I felt like a millionaire. I’m going to be frank, Saizeriya has just found another loyal customer.

A beautiful spread of 3 orders of New Zealand green tipped mussels amongst friends, for a grand total of $5 usd. -Saizeriya’s newest loyal customer

After lunch and being stuffed to the brim with delicious food I had a well deserved rest before our at 3 o’clock for the excursion. I did leave a bit early with a buddy to explore Tokyo Skytree mall which was near the excursion location at Senso-Ji Temple in Asakusa. Tokyo Skytree itself was an imposing building standing over the mall, train station, and the people below it. Though inside was like a lush but dense jungle. With hundreds of shops, and thousands more people within. Entering there were signs of Tanabata with Fukinagashi (streamers) hanging from the mall ceiling and bamboo branches being held by many mall goers. Our first stop was a knife shop called Tower Knives where we saw a variety of artisan knives from manufacturers countrywide, including their in-house brand based out of Seki city know for its knife production. The store also housed a variety of tools such as sheers, pocket knives, and even a mandolin all for sale. Moving on we visited store like Hello Kitty Japan and some boutiques for a few knickknacks here and there. Soon after we made our departure to Asakusa station for Senso-Ji.

Early signs of Tanabata in the form of Fukinagashi

At Senso-Ji, 1 stop away from Tokyo Skytree station. I met up with part of the class and explored the main temple complex partaking in many of the rational Shinto rituals. Those being: washing, hands, face, and mouth via temizu, inhaling holy smoke via the giant incense burner, drawing fortunes (Omikuji) (unfortunately I drew a half fortune), and praying at the central altar via a small donation and prayer. I learned from Sora, our PA, that the best coin to offer at the shrine is a 5 due to a play on words that roughly means a fortunate turning of events. After the rituals the intense heat warranted a cool snack, for that the SA WA WA was my go to. For their mini matcha ice cream parfait. Which for about 700 yen featured a generous helping of their famous warabi mochi, and a beautiful swirl of their double packed matcha soft serve. This allowed for a wonderful texture of thick matcha which then melted away leaving behind the rich creaminess of the ice cream. Ultimately balanced out by the chewy clean cut nature of the warabi mochi. A perfect treat below the lantern temple.

Temizu-Sha (Fountain used for the Temizu purification ritual)

Jokoro (Giant earthenware incense burner) used for the blessing of the smoke.

The central altar of Senso-Ji and infront is the Saisen (collection box) used to collect donations before prayers.

A sweet treat from SA WA WA

After Senso-Ji I made a quick stop to one of my favorite stores of the area, Izumi-ya. Who specializes in one thing, cat shaped rice crackers. They come in all shapes, sizes, and of course flavors. The store prides itself for using Uruchi rice in making their Neko Senbi (cat cracker). 

Izumi-ya and its cat shaped offerings.

Post savory snacks, the class and I ventured over to Kappabashi street, known for their kitchenwares, especially knives, and was the host of the Tanabata festival we would visit. Though we were collectively stopped by a cat of all things, who using its feline charms atop its chair wooed our merry march to a screeching halt. Post cat break we finally arrived at Kappabashi street though after our long journey many of the kitchenware stores had closed. Though we pushed on to the festival grounds and were greeted by the bustling Tanabata festival, with the street dotted with street vendors, lined with bamboo covered in Tanzaku (paper slips covered in wishes to the gods), and swarmed by people. Vendors of all kinds were carting their food wares to hungry festival goers. Stands included food such as Monjayaki, yakisoba, yaki tori, takoyaki, and my personal favorite kakigori (shaved ice). Where I got a mango shaved ice doused in my liquid gold, condensed milk. The cold ice mixed with the sweet yet floral mango, and creamy condensed milk. lead me to a nostalgic experience and coincidental sugar rush. The festival also hosted a wide variety of drink vendor such as: self service soft drinks in massive tubs of ice water, the young and old advertising sake, wine, and high balls, kids yelling at passersby to get an ice cold beer, and one man preaching how delicious his snake wine was (snake wine is a traditional aphrodisiac). After the ruckus of finding food and drink we waited in line to write our own Tanzaku, and one by we hung colorful paper slips so that the gods may see our wishes through.

The Feline Fatal in question perched upon its throne.

Delicious kakigori one mango, one matcha (background), one peach, but all three featuring condensed milk. Thanks Valentina for the photo and Gillian for the cameo.

As the festival drew to a close, me and a splinter group decided to venture back to Tokyo Skytree, but this time with higher ambitions. To go to the top and enjoy the sight, sounds, and of course pictures. Getting tickets was pretty hassle free and so was the line to go up to the 35th floor. Beautiful vistas of the Tokyo skyline took hold and showed a city that never slept among the flashing lights. Though the fun didn’t end there, we were smart and for a little extra money had the opportunity to ascend to the top 45th floor. From there we saw even greater vistas of the city and even took a photo op hanging above the city aloft a cloud. I must lament the hardest part of the journey was not going up, but coming down. With it taking nearly an hour just to go down the tower, moving along with the tide of people, it nearly felt like the last helicopters leaving Saigon as tiredness and pure exhaustion overtook our legs with each step, causing some of us to break out into singsong. After getting down and a casual hour long train ride, dinner consisted of the best nutrition found at the combini, Ongiri and jelly, how appetizing.

A photo aloft one very crowded cloud, Tokyo Skytree. Featuring Me, Valentina, Romi, and Kerem.
Overall, I had a blast at the excursion, and the event before and after it. Having a meal at the family restaurant gave me a glimpse into the psyche of the average Japanese citizen. The visit to Senso-Ji allowed me to better connect with the ancient traditions of Japan, so I may better understand the newer traditions. Tanabata further enlightened me on the significance of certain festivals. I really got in touch with what are otherwise more mundane aspects of Japanese life. Finally I reached new heights visiting the very top of Tokyo Skytree, and would certainly love to do it again.