Japanese Food Bites: Indulging in the Taste of Summer

It’s a cumbersome sensation, acknowledging that you have to part ways with old aspects of your life to pave a new unwinding road, full of memories and adventures that are yet to come. Prior to this Dialogue of Civilizations journey, I experienced a series of bittersweet endings that a tarot reader on Newbury Street of Boston, Massachusetts advised me to get rid of- using her $200 tigers’ eye stone. And while I am one to really like crystals and how they gently glisten when soaking up the fresh, ebbing moonlight, paying $200 for a tumbled stone that I could find on Etsy for a significantly cheaper price didn’t exactly sit right with me. So, I didn’t purchase it. Instead, I had an inkling that Japan would be somewhat of a spiritually-freeing journey for me. And I would like to thank past Kelly Chen for waiting to have that cathartic, life-changing release, because it is what I was blessed with at the infamous Kifune Shrine, one known for cutting ties that no longer serve you and transitioning to another point of life.

But before we step into that tidbit of the day, I would like to thank my salmon-mayonnaise onigiri for being a necessary source of sustenance among the 1.5 hour commute from our group’s hotel to the shrine, and acting as a predecessor for the glorious kaiseki meal of which we cheerfully indulged in at Kifune Nakayoshi. Upon trekking up the main parking lot which leads to the shrine itself, we were all heaving with dry breaths under the overbearing back burner of Japanese solar rays, sweat beads caked onto our painfully dehydrated foreheads. Teeth seething from the lack of oxygenation in our respiratory systems soon converted to jaw-dropped gaping mouths. Lo and behold, a sight for sore eyes. Kifune Shrine.

Going up the steep rocky staircase of this historical shrine would prove to be a feat, however we quite fortunately had a warm-up meal waiting for us, including a beautiful sight of the greenery suspended above the Kurama River in tow. We sat on delicately plush cushions atop of firm tatami mats, the river’s edge a mere couple inches away from our extremities.

Our first course consisted of a refreshing tofu dish with a dollop of wasabi on its surface, two slices of tuna sashimi and two slices of sea bream, shiso leaf, and some shavings of a jelly-like substance. I was not particularly a fan of the sea bream sashimi due its snappy texture that refused to tear away at the seams of my teeth, so I gave the remainder to my dining partner in front of me, Logan. The next dish was one that met my standards, a block of tofu skin layers that are reminiscent of my Cantonese mom’s soup. With a perfectly cooked shrimp and singular slice of shiitake mushroom framing the tofu’s face like crescent moons, the second course was deeply satisfying and left me hankering for more. I needed something cold to ebb away at the licks of heat set by the scorching sun, the dips of my feet in the river water not being enough to reach the inner parts of my inflamed soul. Thankfully, the third dish came out at the right time and served its purpose well- a reflection of thin rice somen noodles staring back at my glazed eyes, desperate for some form of relief. It’s safe to say that I scarfed these noodles down and left a trace of absolute nothingness behind.

Finally, it was time for a group onsen break. Well, not literally. We wanted to take advantage of the cool waters padding underneath our sweat-soaked feet for a wonderful rinse, and so we did. It was a bonding moment for our already close study abroad group, this experience of communal dipped toes in the subtle Funakawa waves being another upgrade to our very much familial dynamic.

Back to the chopping block of the tatami mats! We continued with our fine dining, ravaging in the salt-grilled sweetfish that was freshly grilled, probably seconds away from leaving the surface of a sizzling hot skillet. I couldn’t bear the distinct bitter aftertaste in my mouth so I gave the crusted morsel away to an exuberant Sora, my other seatmate who professed his love for this particular piece of marine life. It would have paired quite well with my umeshu-soda combination, but ultimately I’m just glad that my food did not go to waste. A ball of mochi rice came into our line of sight, and it was a real treasure to dig into. The rice was covering some tender bits of a salted fish, akin to a type that I grew up eating myself- “saltfish” being the coined terminology of which my family refers to it as. We finished our kaiseki meal with a profoundly rich miso soup, deeper in flavor than many of the ones I’ve had in the past. Dr. Young’s tangent of amino acids, glutamate, aspartate, and taste receptors kept ringing in my ears like a mellow lullaby as I basked in the depth of the broth. And of course, let’s not forgo the dessert! Two slices of ruby red watermelon cleansed the sickly warm sensations we endured on our treacherous trip up this inclined road; it felt like a reward. With one final toe dip into the river water, we were out and ready to dwell into Kifune Shrine for some much-needed personal time.

There were 3 options presented to our group post-meal: either continue this experience and hike approximately 2 miles, visit a different shrine after this specific one, or take a scenic route back to the inner municipal district of Kyoto. Already feeling drowsiness come upon me like the waves of the Funakawa River, I opted for the last option, but not before accomplishing what needed to be done long ago. The stairs leading up to Kifune Shrine mirrored my healing process from the past couple of months, a tumultuous path full of smooth and jagged edges alike. Immediately, I paid for one of the wooden plaques and pink slip wish papers, scribbling down words of what I desire to let go and positive affirmations to come into fruition. Before hanging up the wishes by their tassels, I took in a deep breath and closed my eyes to relinquish all the pent-up emotions I felt in my soul. Everything I felt surged into the forefront of my mind and dissipated with every sigh I would let out. My mind was now clear.

My friend Shirley inspired me to purchase an 100 yen fortune note, with the fortunes remaining ambiguous until submerged in the flowing waters of the shrine. Naturally, I am a rather picky person so I dwelled on choosing my individual paper amongst the numerous pile, whereas many of the other visitors around me nonchalantly grabbed at the top. And I think I made a really auspicious selection, “GREAT BLESSING” outlining my slip.

Overall, this is the excursion from this Dialogue of Civilizations course that I will remember and cherish the most. Not only because of the collective experience of my groupmates and I jubilantly flopping our limbs into the water, rhythmic giggles and stupid foolish grins all around, or the riverside serenading my ears like a lulling melody, but most importantly because of the comfort that Kifune Shrine bestowed upon me. It was an incredibly personal experience where I felt clarity that I hadn’t experienced in months. Now, I am ready to take on the world and move on to bigger and better things that are destined for me, with some unforgettable new friends along my side.