Japanese Food Bites: Indulging in the Taste of Summer

July 23, 2024

They say we see memories through rose colored lenses, and that you cannot relive them. I have to ask, what would you do just to experience them again? I asked myself these questions and more riding the train to one of my favorite places in Kyoto. Sannen- and Ninen-Zaka, as touristy as it is I’ve been fortunate to harbor fond memories there, and even more fortunate to recreate such artful pieces again. Though our day starts from more humble beginnings.

Ping… Ping… Ping… ugh. I turn ever so slightly to turn off the incessant noise that is my alarm. Its 7:30 am in the morning, I am greeted by the “beautiful” morning light though my frosted glass window, presumably facing a parking lot or the building next door. With wild bedhead, and acne patches riddling my face, it was finally time to get a move on with things. Stumbling down by 8:15 I barley caught the main group leaving the hotel. The trains over to our new classroom location at Kyoto City International Exchange Hall (KOKOKA) were like usual, packed. Pulling up to the place was easy, but waiting to enter the building was hard. The sun and her ever “loving” embrace showered the landscape. It was 8:45 in the morning, but I was a vampire in the sun, burning alive. thought living in Texas would prepare me for this type of weather, but I was out of league with the strong UVs searing my skin. After what felt a sysiphian amount of time, I felt as if the dinosaurs had died and me along with it, it was 15 minutes.

Click, as those heavenly gates opened I sprinted fourth into class. 3 hours, 1 quiz, 3 lessons on Point of view, voice, and genetics later, I was free. Though only as free as my stomach would dictate to me. Therefore, the hunt was on for some good food. After some scrolling around I found a place and were accompanied by the lovely Gillian, Mark, and Jayden to a top rated udon restaurant called 一休亭. Lets just say those foodies were not lying with those top ratings. The store were run by 2 very understanding ladies, even without English menus we used broken Japanese and some well placed お願いしますto successfully order. I dined upon their signature set menu featuring hot udon, onyakudon, and sides of pickles, fish cake, Mangaji Amato peppers, and a tea egg. Simply delightful, mother and egg, udon with pickles allowed for tons of tasty combinations. After paying and saying goodbye to our sweet hosts, we were off to Haigashiyama. While others went back to the hotel to rest, you know what they say the early bird gets the worm, and that’s exactly what I did with a small group of people in tow. After all we were given free reign to go to venture into the shopping streets that day.

The signature set meal at 一休亭

The soft rumble of the bus down made my heart flutter with each beat of the street. Beautiful sights of green and Japanese architecture filled my view as we roved around the city. Hopping off we were greeted by a beautiful Family Mart, with a pip in my step and buying a some drinks later we were off to Sannenzaka.

Its sheer formosity commanded the upmost respect, even among the all the tourists scurrying about. Its charming steps have seen many people over the past centuries, but me only a year ago. As I wander about, captivated in awe of shops new and old. I recollect some of my most favorite places and views, the most vivid being the variety of sweet treats. By a sheer stroke of luck I was pleasantly greeted by my favorite wasabi mochi joint with its signature sign of 4 dango. The Fujinami Kodai-Ji Temple Store hosted tons of sweets  from different dangos, shaved ice, drinks, soft serve, and of course Warabi Mochi. One of my favorite reviews for the place being “Good sweets Good price, Life is better with Wababimochi”, they took the words out of mouth. Such a treat was very alluring not just from its delicious texture and taste, but also the perishability of the good. Causing a scarcity that makes it a go to every time I visit the country. With a toothsome exterior, it gives way to a soft texture with gentle flavors putting your mind at ease. This is contrasted with the bitter yet earthy matcha juice and enjoying both flavor in tandem with the drink creates a Ratatouille like eureka moment with the melding of such different textures and flavors. Though my heart always goes out to their matcha and salted sakura soft serve. I recommend it as a treat for every season, especially during the winter with their hot matcha. My first bites into such delights brought back memories of my father and just the 2 of us enjoying this treat together on a winters day around new years. I’m happy to say that its even better in the company of friends such as Mokkh, Jayden, and of course Gillian who at the time was conquering a matcha Kakigori fit for 2. Also the iced matcha was the perfect quencher for the hot Kyoto summer.

Perfectly sweet Matcha & Salted Sakura soft serve, and Warabi Mochi with Matcha Left & Bottom: Then, Right & Top: Now

As others in our dialogue group roamed around the shopping streets I continued to duck in and out of various sweet shops in the area. Up next was 月下美人 a small confectionary store off of Ninenzaka who’s main draw to me years ago were their piping hot sweet potato dango. Thankfully the place hasn’t changed too much since I was gone, only some of the offerings. Instead of coal roasted sweet potatoes, fries, and chips its now giant tubs of fruit juice and lemon jelly. Luckily one thing remains the same, piping sweet potato dango, everywhere. Paper cups filled with the golden brown treat lines the literal walls, counter, and Just about everywhere else. Though for 300 yen you too can get one of these delights. Unlike their smaller counterparts made of rice flour, the texture and eating experience differs heavily. Even though they share the same sweet soy sauce, one dainty bites have grown into monstrosities with the power of sweet potato starch. Leading to a thicker and chewier bite, and paired with the warm viscous topping leads to a bursts of sweet, salty, and gentle starch flavors. My first bite I remember my dad and I freezing and this being the perfect pick me up snack. I guess in the context of summer I am one of the few tourists enjoying such a treat in the dead heat of summer, but its all worth it just to taste a piece of that memory again.

Sweet Potato Dango Left: Then Right: Now

Though I wasn’t immune to just confining myself to the sweets the area had to offer. The call of various stores lured me in hook line and sinker. No better than the Studio Ghibli store, both of them. Entering the store again I was greeting by many familiar sights, the Giant Totoro which I obviously got photo by, his wooden cutout counterpart, another photo, and of course Jiji perched on her wooden stump waiting to out on another delivery with her beloved Kiki, though she’s seen better days. Special guests such as professor Young also made surprise appearances which added a sense of familiarity to the crowded store. As we marched forth with ever more bags in our arms we encountered more stores and fosters more fond memories visiting store even I haven’t ventured to. From affordable ceramics stores to cloud cakes we saw it all.

Our photos with Giant Totoro

Poor Jiji has seen better days Left: Before Right: After

After literal hours of roaming the shopping streets it was time of make one final stop and conclude this walk down memory lane my favorite boro joint, Tamago parlor. With shelves dedicated to the snack I was only natural I indulged. One product I have loved are their jars of giant boro being twice the size of the normal ones, one sample and I was instantly repurchasing. The once crunchy morsel melts away into the mouth with alacrity, sweetened starch once bound by egg melt into pools of sweet milky gold. Such a sensation awoken once dormant memories of my father and I finding this boro to be an object of fascination, not from its shape, but also the adorable packaging it was encased in. Truly some much needed Japanese sensibility was used in the making of this product. This was in addition to other flavors such as taro and seasonal peach. One more item caught my eye, a wooden sake box (Masu) branded with the store’s logo and filled with boro, probably to enjoy later with refreshing beverage. There was one man in mind I had to buy this for, though for all intensive purposes that secret is best kept for the group, apologies my dear reader.

With each step after Tamago parlor their weight of all the baggage stared to feel almost crushing not only to my body, but also soul for all the financial damage that occurred. The sign for every good shopper to start bringing their loot and great memories home. On the bus ride home I recollected all the memories from previous trips with family, but also the new one made amongst friends which I’ll treasure like gold and hope to relive again in the future.

Thank you again for reading dear reader.

Best wishes,

Frederick Hu