First Day in Kyoto, Japan’s Ancient Capital

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With a six-hour journey ahead of us, our hotel hopping was finally coming to an end. We left the gorgeous coastal city of Kurobe behind and made our way toward the historic southern city of Kyoto. Traveling at speeds of up to 200 miles per hour aboard Japan’s legendary bullet train—the Shinkansen, we made our way through the country’s exquisite countryside, with trees replacing the soaring towers of Tokyo and streams substituting its roads. 

What enables the Shinkansen to achieve such remarkable speeds is truly fascinating. The trains operate on dedicated high-speed tracks with minimal curves, allowing them to maintain their velocity while providing passengers with an exceptionally smooth ride. Japan has developed an extensive Shinkansen network that spans much of the main island of Honshu, as well as parts of Kyushu and Hokkaido. Our route covered only a small portion of this remarkable infrastructure, crossing from the Sea of Japan coast into the south-central region of the country.

The three trains we rode were smoother than any subway trains we had been thrown around in for most of our trip. No potholes, no turbulence, no sudden braking. I could sip my much-needed coffee in peace, without worrying about spills or stains.

At last, the travel portion of our day came to an end as we arrived at our Kyoto hotel. We dropped our bags, and not even five minutes later, we started walking towards our new classroom. With aching feet, foggy minds, and anxiety on the rise, we stepped into the asylum-white room and promptly sat down to take our second biology quiz. Afterwards, we wrapped up with a short biology lecture before finally being released for the day.

For dinner that evening, I’ll be forever grateful to my friend Caroline who found and insisted we try this local tonkatsu restaurant. I hadn’t had tonkatsu yet during our time in Japan, and by then, my stomach was making more decisions than my brain. After a fifteen-minute walk through narrow Kyoto streets, our ravenous group turned into a modest, traditional one-story building that blended into its quiet neighborhood.

The moment we passed through the inconspicuous sliding canvas doors, we were hit with a tsunami of delicious aromas: frying oil, crispy pork, and something warm and savory. It gave us an immediate second wind as we were seated at a table for six.

I ordered 120 grams of tenderloin tonkatsu, consisting of deep-fried deliciousness in the form of a lean pork tenderloin.. Before the main course arrived, our waitress brought each of us a small bowl filled with sesame seeds and a wooden pestle. We were initially confused until she handed us a paper guide: we were to crush the sesame seeds into a fine powder and mix our own dipping sauce using one or more of the three options provided—original, spicy, and yuzu. Like kids with a new toy, we dove in with giddy enthusiasm, laughing, spilling, and taste-testing our creations.

By the time the food arrived, we were thoroughly prepared. The tonkatsu came freshly cut, oil still sizzling on its golden-brown crust, with a literal mountain of cabbage on the side. Each bite was a perfect contrast—rich, tender pork wrapped in crispy breading, elevated by my homemade sesame sauce that added a salty, tangy, slightly spicy burst of flavor. Between bites, I piled on as much yuzu-dressed cabbage as my chopsticks would allow, a refreshing counterbalance to the heavier meat. The miso soup, served on the side, surprised me with its depth—salty, earthy, and easily one of the best I’ve tasted in Japan.

The entire meal was in perfect harmony, each component balancing the others in flavor, texture, and style. I’m still unsure whether the food was truly that incredible, or if hunger had made it divine. But one thing I’m certain of: that dinner was a magical way to introduce ourselves to Kyoto. I can’t wait to discover the next hole-in-the-wall gem this incredible city has to offer.

2 responses to “First Day in Kyoto, Japan’s Ancient Capital”

  1. YukariSakamoto Avatar
    YukariSakamoto

    I love Katsukura tonkatsu! Grinding the toasted sesame seeds at the table to mix in with the sauce for the pork cutlets elevates the meal. Katsukura is a Kyoto favorite. There is also a branch in Tokyo at Shinjuku Takashiimaya.

    My food writing friend has his last night after two weeks traveling in Japan. He saved his last dinner for Katsukura tonkatsu at Shinjuku Takashimaya. Save the best for last. 🙂

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  2. Jo Guarin Avatar
    Jo Guarin

    Love love love tonkatsu! The sesame seed grinding really gets you involved and it’s amazing how many components go into a seemingly simple meal. Glad you enjoyed!

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