Usually when we talk about the tastes of bitter and sweet, it’s during class discussions or while trying new foods at izakayas. We spend our time breaking down the flavors of Japanese meals and dishes many of us have never tried before. But while leaving Dr. Young’s last lecture today, bittersweet filled the air. We were excited to finally be finished with classes for the summer, but it also meant the program was slowly coming to an end.

With so little time left, it felt important to keep traveling and exploring every little nook and cranny of Kyoto. Our first stop of the day was Mt. Inari. Goal: reach the summit. Standing 233 meters tall, the mountain is home to the infamous Fushimi Inari Shrine, known as 1000 gates shrine.

The first thing I noticed was how crowded it was. People from all over the world come to visit this beautiful and long-standing spiritual site. At first, the hike was fairly easy. 10 minutes in and we were already about a third of the way up. But with every step, the stairs became steeper and shorter. Sweat dripped down my face as the humidity seemed to get ten times worse with all the people surrounding us.

As we continued hiking, there were fewer and fewer people. Small shrines flourished throughout the mountain. Fox statues stood guard beside countless red gates. The smell of fresh soil filled the air, interrupted only occasionally by the sound of crows overhead. Finally, after about an hour of hiking, we reached the summit.
Honestly, the view was a little underwhelming. I had imagined seeing all of Kyoto spread out beneath us. Instead, we were greeted by a small shrine and only a handful of people who had made it to the top. Beautiful nonetheless.
The hike down was somehow just as challenging. You might think walking downhill would be easier since you’re not fighting gravity anymore, but one wrong step on those uneven stone stairs could send you tumbling. I found myself staring at the ground the entire way down, carefully placing each step with precision.
For Maddie, who completed the hike with me, her highlight was reaching the summit despite feeling completely exhausted. She said the higher we went, the fewer people there were, which made the experience much more enjoyable. Looking back, she wished she had come more prepared for the heat and the amount of walking involved. Her advice: come prepared. It is definitely a hike. In the moment, it feels like you’re dying, but looking back, it was a lot of fun and worth the effort.
Hungry and exhausted, we were eager to get dinner. Unfortunately, the trains were down, so we looked for somewhere nearby to eat quickly. Under Kyoto Tower, we stumbled across Kyoto Tower Sando’s food court. Deep inside, I found a Korean food stall. I don’t even remember the name because I was so hungry and just wanted the first real meal of the day.

I ordered a sliced wagyu rice bowl with Korea’s infamous kimchi and marinated bean sprouts on the side. The rice and golden-brown wagyu slices sat perfectly between my chopsticks. The moment I took a bite, an explosion of umami filled my mouth. The wagyu had clearly been marinated for a long time because it practically melted across my taste buds. The Korean BBQ sauce was slightly tangy, a little sweet, but mostly rich with umami. The sauce seeped into the rice, creating the perfect texture—not too mushy, but packed with flavor. The rice and wagyu melted together like butter.
And let’s not forget the kimchi. Fun fact, I actually do not like kimchi. I’m not the biggest fan of fermented foods. However, whenever I get my hands on really good kimchi, I won’t stop eating it. This was some of the best kimchi I’ve ever had. It was perfectly sour, not enough to make my eyes shut but with just the right amount of spice. The bean sprouts were soft and lightly marinated in soy sauce, giving them a sweet and salty flavor that helped cleanse my palate between bites. Everything worked together perfectly.
My only complaint was the portion size. Even for someone my size (I am 4’11), I was still hungry afterward. For around 1,500 yen, it felt expensive compared to many other Japanese meals. If you’re looking to try a wagyu rice bowl, I’d definitely recommend it. But if you’re looking for something cheaper and more filling, there were plenty of other options throughout the food court.
To end the day after all that hiking, a few of us decided to relax with a Thai foot massage near our hotel. We had walked past the shop several times before and finally decided to give it a try. The moment you walk in, you’re hit with the strong smell of herbal oils, very similar to the Vietnamese oils my family uses at home. This was my first professional massage, so I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect, but I could immediately tell it was a well-maintained place. Dark birch floors, elevated platforms, neatly folded towels, and mats gave the space a warm and welcoming feeling.
After paying, we were guided behind the curtains to change before settling in for the massage. They worked not only on our feet but also up our calves and thighs, which was much needed after the hike. The staff were incredibly friendly and welcoming, making the experience even better. However, for around $48 USD, I don’t think it was worth the price, especially when other shops nearby offered similar services for nearly half as much. Still, it was a great way to end the day. After hours of sweating our way up Mt. Inari, eating good food, and wandering endlessly in Japan, it felt nice to finally sit back, relax, and let all the soreness leave my body.
Looking back, I realized I haven’t exercised in a very long time. This hike ended up being my exercise for the entire trip in Japan. It was rewarding to slow down and explore the history and monumental places that Japan has to offer. On top of that, it was nice to take a moment to rest my mind and loosen up my muscles after a long day of walking. My favorite moments were when I was high up on the trail and everyone disappeared. It was just me and the beautiful nature surrounding Fushimi Inari Shrine. With our time in Japan coming to an end, days like this remind me to take advantage of every opportunity to explore while I’m still here.

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